Caresheet Provided By: Brian Skibinski
Written by Brian Skibinski. All Rights Reserved. Do not duplicate without
permission.
Introduction
Please note that this is meant to be a basic guide only. I highly recommend
researching any animal thoroughly before purchasing the actual animal. Please
use the resources section at the end of this sheet in conjunction with the
information provided within.
General Information
Leopard geckos (Family: Gekkonidae, Genus: Eublephari, Species: macularius) are
an ideal pet for many people in the reptile world, novices and advanced
hobbyists alike. They are relatively easy to care for, come in a large variety
of colors, and are known to be extremely hardy when kept in captivity. Leopard
geckos come from the Middle Eastern States (mainly Pakistan and surrounding
countries), however due to recent popularity most of the leopard geckos sold in
the United States are captive-bred. They are relatively easy to care for
(compared to many other types of lizard or gecko), widely available, and full
grown adults usually only reach a length of 7-10 inches, making them a good
choice for anyone who wants a smaller lizard. Leopard Geckos are set apart from
other geckos for two main features: moveable eyelids and lack of "sticky feet".
Leopard geckos cannot climb glass as many other gecko species can. They can
(and do) drop their tails when picked up by the tail. Always support the body
of the gecko from below when handling and allow the gecko to climb.
Getting your Leopard Gecko
Where to Get a Leopard Gecko
You can find leopard geckos at most larger pet stores. Private breeders are
usually the best option, simply because there is less chance that a disease can
be transferred between geckos. Many pet stores, however, do buy from private
breeders. They should be able to tell you who they purchase their geckos from.
If they don't know, it's probably not from a small, private breeder. You can
find some private breeders on the forums at the sites listed in the resources
section. Note that many of us ship animals, and if you buy from someone online
you should check them out on the Board of Inquiry (see resources) and expect to
pay an additional $30-$40 for shipping. Many private breeders will also go to
reptile shows, and this allows you to pick up the animals and avoid paying for
shipping. A small charge usually gets you in the door and you can find vendor
lists online. Again, see the resources section.
Morphs
Leopard geckos come in numerous types, or morphs. Each morph provides a
specific characteristic (usually related to color or pattern). Using genetics,
one can breed leopard geckos to achieve a certain pattern or coloring in the
babies. The folling is a list of sites that explain the morphs and gentics
behind each.
Cost
A leopard gecko can be found in pet stores for anywhere from $30 up to $100 for
a normal. The internet provides less expensive animals, but you usually will
have to pay shipping of around $40-50. Combination morphs (ex. carrot-tail
patternless albino) can cost anywhere from $75 up to $1500 depending on the
color and patterns of the gecko. Reptile shows are a good way to find lower-priced
leopard geckos, but be sure to check the animals over before any purchase.
Also, initial setup will cost more for proper
equipment, and put some money aside for unexpected medical expenses like
parasites, ect. You should always add $15-$30 for a fecal exam of ANY new
addition to your collection (will be discussed later).
Picking out a Gecko
When you purchase a gecko, make sure that it is healthy. The Dr. Gecko website
(http://www.drgecko.com) has a good checklist for selecting a gecko (see the
end of the resources section for the list). If possible, ask to see the gecko
eat. It is also a good sign if it's shedding. You should ask the store if they
know the age or sex of the gecko. It is also a definite help if you know what
the gecko was eating beforehand, but if not, most will eat crickets or
mealworms. It can be helpful to also know if it has been exposed to any other
geckos and the health of the geckos. This is because many diseases geckos carry
can be transmitted. This is also why any new gecko should be quarantined from
the rest of the geckos for at least 60-90 days.
Checklist of a Healthy Gecko (from www.drgecko.com)
This checklist includes those qualities that are to be found in a healthy
leopard gecko. Use this checklist when you are looking to purchase a leopard
gecko and be sure to refer to it during the quarantine period after you first
acquire the gecko.
Eyes
_____ Bright and clear
_____ No drooping or swollen eyelids
_____ No discharge, tearing or crusting residue
Mouth & Jaw
_____ No cheesy or foaming mucus discharge
_____ Not hanging open
_____ Firm
Nose
_____ No mucus discharge
Vent
_____ No unusual swelling
_____ No dried, dark stains
Stools
_____ Feces should be brown to black
_____ Urates whitish and solid/pasty in consistency
_____ No loose or runny stools
_____ No discoloured stools
_____ No pungent/sour/strong odor to stools
Overall Body
_____ Rounded thighs and calves
_____ Skin (should be tight with few skin folds)
_____ No open sores or blisters
_____ No evidence of mites or ticks
_____ Tail is complete; no missing digits
_____ No evidence of runny stools
_____ Stomach should be fat and full
Overall Appearance
_____ Gives impression of vigor
_____ Good muscle tone
_____ Good weight
_____ Frisky and alert
Quarantine
You should always quarantine any new leopard gecko that you acquire before
combining them with your other animals for at least 60 days of healthy
behavior. New leopard geckos may carry parasites or other diseases that are
transferable to your existing collection. Very often leopard geckos do not show
symptoms of these until it is too late. It is also a good idea to get a fecal
exam done by a qualified vet. Your local reptile vet should have information on
fecal exams.
Inter-Species Housing
Leopard geckos should NOT be housed with any other species. Fights, diseases,
parasites, intimidation, and overall health problems can occur in either (or
both) species. It is extremely stressful for the gecko and therefore should be
not considered an option.
Veterinary Care
Leopard geckos are animals, just like dogs and cats. Like dogs and cats,
leopard geckos should be taken into a vet if a situation arises. The resource
section has some resources to find a local veterinarian. Make sure you find one
who has a good knowledge of reptiles. If they don't, ask them for a good one in
the area. Most veterinarians should know the surrounding vets and their
specialties. You can use the veterinarian you find for a fecal exam, for
emergency care, and as a resource for any questions you may have. ALWAYS keep
the money for an emergency visit, and if you can't afford the trip to the vet
for routine exams and simple emergency procudures, you shouldn't get a leopard
gecko until you have the resources to properly care for it.
Feeding / Water
Feeding is usually done in different intervals. Some people feed 2-3 times a
day. Most will feed daily, and some every other day. I try to feed all of my
animals daily, but they do have fat reserves in the tail, so missing an extra
day won't hurt them. A healthy leopard gecko can live for a week without food
(as long as it has water).
Water
Leopard geckos will drink standing water, but always keep it clean.
Gut-loading / Dusting
All live prey items should be "gut loaded". By feeding your prey healthy food,
you are inherently making the leopard gecko healthier. Most of the time this
means a "salad" of sorts, with some carrot, squash, or green leaves of some
kind for the crickets and/or mealworms. Commercial products are also available,
but may not be worth the extra cost. Prey items should be dusted with both a
multivitamin (ex. Herptivite) and calcium with vitamin D3, usually at every
other feeding, but if the geckos are breeding you should do this for every
feeding (switch off calcium with D3 and calcium without D3 if you are doing
this).
Types of Food
Cody has some excellent information on the care of many feeders at his site [http://www.progeckos.com/careinfo.htm].
-
Crickets - Crickets are a good choice for all age leopard geckos. They
are quite active, which tends to peak the interest of younger leopard geckos.
Many breeders avoid their use simply because they are loud (when adults),
smelly, and kind of difficult to work with a lot of them at the same time. If
using crickets, you should only feed the gecko as much as it will eat in about
a 20 minute period. Don't overfeed since the crickets can stress a gecko
(imagine crickets crawling all over you and biting you for hours!). Try to
remove any excess crickets from the cage.
-
Silkworms - These soft worms are a good choice for all leopard geckos.
They are in a larvae stage. They are extremely nutritious and are very healthy
for leopard gecks. Most leopard geckos will enjoy these quite a bit, and it
seems to be one of their favorite foods. Silkworms offer many benefits to the
herp keeper as well, as they are slow moving and do not smell like crickets. On
the downside, they are quite expensive. Many breeders choose to breed these in
colonies to reduce costs, but they do take quite a bit of effort.
-
Roaches - Roaches have also become popular lately. They are also very
healthy for leopard geckos, and geckos that like a little faster movement than
silkworms will likely enjoy these. Most species don't stink like crickets, and
they are relatively inexpensive. There are a few different species of roaches
that are safe for leopard gecko consumption. Some species of roaches can climb
glass, making them difficult to keep in captivity. Each roach species has it's
benifits and it's downfalls.
-
Mealworms - Properly gut loaded mealworms are the item of choice for
larger breeders. They are actually the larvae stage for a beetle. If kept at
room temperature, a worm can last about 4 weeks before changing into this form.
They can be kept in the refrigerator to help slow this process (gut load the
worms while they are out of fridge before feeding). It is easy to care for many
of them at the same time for this reason. Mealworms are also nice because they
can be left in a leopard gecko cage all the time (as long as they are in a dish
from which they cannot escape). Make sure that if they stay in the disk for
longer than 24 hours you gut load them to keep them healthy for your leopard
gecko.
NOTE: Mealworms are perfectly safe for your leopard gecko and will NOT
eat through a gecko's stomach, regardless of the common rumor. Scientific studies have been done to analyze the acidity of a leopard gecko's stomach, and it's not possible for a mealworm to survive for more than a few seconds, especially if it's been bitten.
-
Wax worms - Are extremely fattening and a quick way to fatten up
a leopard gecko, but NOT recommended. These are the junk food of the reptile
world. Although high in fat, it contains very little in terms of actual
nutrition. Since geckos love them so much, you should avoid using them at all
if possible (some geckos get "addicted" to them and refuse other prey items).
-
Pinky Mice - One of the once in a while items. These are usually
only fed to adult females since they contain extra calcium which will help a
female create eggs during breeding season. Only one per week should be offered
to adult females (or less). My females seem to do fine without any.
-
Other / Wild Caught - It is NOT a good idea to use these at all. They
can easily carry a bacteria or disease that could be fatal to leopard geckos.
You just never know where they came from.
Housing
A single leopard gecko can be housed in a 10 gallon aquarium at a minimum. For
minimum tank sizes, 10 gallons per leopard geckos is a good general rule. The
more floor space you can provide for the leopard geckos, the better. Leopard
geckos are extremely resourceful and will find a way to escape if you allow
anything too high in the cage. I also recommend a screen top, as it keeps the
leopard geckos in and allows a place for lighting. Rack systems are also used
for housing multiple leopard geckos, usually by larger breeders. You should be
able to find more information on these on the forums listed in the resources
section. Leopard geckos come from a relatively dry area, so humidity should be
kept to a minimum. Daily misting or too high humidity can lead to respiratory
infections.
Types of Substrate
- Paper Towel - The safest choice for leopard geckos. It's easy to
change and inexpensive. However it is not visually appealing and does not hold
heat well. I use it only for my hatchlings' enclosures.
- Sand - The
least safe choice. Impaction has killed many geckos. Some people have kept
their leopard geckos on sand with no problems. Calcium sand is NOT digestible
regardless of what the packaging says. Check out a few of the forums in the
resource section for more information about impaction. Just avoid the risk and
use one of the other options.
- Tile - Visually appealing, safe, and
holds heat well. It is also inexpensive and most home improvement stores will
cut them to size for you. Perhaps the best choice for display cages.
- Carpet -
A reptile carpet works pretty well except the fact that leopard gecko toes can
get stuck and rip off when the gecko tries to walk. For this reason, astroturf
/ reptile carpet is not recommended. I prefer to use a felt from the fabric
store more than a carpet. It is compressed and the geckos don't seem to have
too much of a problem with it. None of the carpeting options seem to hold heat
well.
Hides
Leopard geckos are nocturnal and thus need dark, quiet places to sleep during
the day. Hides can be made out of old soft spread butter containers with a hole
cut in it. Commercial hides are also available. Anything that allows the
leopard gecko to hide from light and activity will work. One hide should also
be humid. Generally perlite, vermiculite, paper towel, or peat moss would be
put in the bottom of the container and moistened. This will help the leopard
gecko shed and prevent old skin from cutting off circulation to toes and limbs.
The humid hide should be placed on the warm end of the tank
Having more than one gecko
Males should NEVER be housed together. They are territorial and will fight to
the death. Females may become aggressive towards each other, so watch to make
sure they do not fight. Also, only keep leopard geckos together that are the
same size. Larger leopard geckos may intimidate smaller ones and the smaller
ones will refuse to eat. If this happens, separate the leopard geckos as soon
as possible. Also, even if breeding, males should not be kept with just one
female for extended periods of time (more than a few weeks). The male will try
to breed with the female as much as possible and it will be stressful for her.
If you want to keep them together for longer periods of time, use a 1:2 or 1:3
male to female ratio.
Heating
USE A THERMOSTAT. I cannot stress that enough. I've seen too many dead animals
because of a short and a heating device running more than full blast. Since
leopard geckos thermoregulate, the enclosure should also have a heat gradient,
with the hot end being around 85-90 and the cool end around 78-80. Nighttime
temps can drop as low as 65 without harm, but try to keep it around 70.
Ways to Heat
-
UTH (Under Tank Heater) - The best choice. These are commercially
available and usually stick right to the bottom of the cage. The UTH should
take up about one third of bottom of the cage.
-
Heat Tape - Similar to an UTH. It's a strip (usually 3, 4, or 11 inches
wide) that heats up when plugged in. Placement is usually up to the installer
(you). Usually low wattage. Used mostly in rack systems. For glass aquariums,
use an UTH because it is easier to install on glass.
-
Basking Lights - Not the best way to go for heat. Leopard geckos are
nocturnal and will not use a light as a basking spot like many other lizards.
They will usually hide from the light.
-
Red/Blue Bulbs - Overhead heating is not usually preferred, but if you
plan on using it use a red or blue bulb that is a darker light. These are
better for the leopard geckos since they are fairly light sensitive. Also
allows for night viewing. I would not use these bulbs as your primary source of
heat, but they could help raise the daytime temps. Again, use an on/off
thermostat or use in conjunction with an UTH or heat tape.
-
Heat Rocks - Not the best idea. These have a tendency to short out if
they get wet and burn animals. Avoid using any heating device that the leopard
geckos can directly contact. If you MUST use it, use it only with a thermostat.
Lighting
Since leopard geckos are nocturnal, light is not required. Ambient light in the
room is usually enough for leopard geckos to establish a sense of the length of
the days (photoperiod). Many people also use a low wattage bulb for viewing,
and a ultraviolet or red light for night viewing. UVB is not required (low
levels may be ok, but not required).
Breeding
There is more than enough information on the web for breeding, so feel free to
take a look at the resources below.
Milwaukee
Reptiles Egg Fertility Page
Incubation Information
Stress in Leopard Geckos (from www.drgecko.com)
Leopard geckos can become stressed very easily. The most common reasons why a
leopard gecko may be stressed could include:
- Tapping on the glass of the enclosure.
- Malnutrition.
- Poor water quality.
- Poor diet.
- Lack of hiding areas.
- Inappropriate housing.
- Improper environmental temperatures and/or humidity.
- Excessive and unnecessary handling.
- Overcrowding.
- Subjected to aggression from other cage mate(s).
When a leopard gecko is subjected to constant stress, the immune system can be
suppressed. This leaves the gecko more susceptible to a variety of health
problems.
Leopard geckos that are stressed may exhibit the following signs/symptoms:
- Tend to hide more.
- Darkening/dulling of the skin.
- Loss of appetite.
- Failure to bask.
- Lethargy.
- Fearful and nervous behaviors.
- Change from normal patterns of behavior.
Stress in leopard geckos can very easily result in:
- Weight loss and emaciation.
- Dehydration.
- Malnutrition.
- Systemic infection (bacterial, viral, fungal or parasitic).
- Slow growth or failure to grow.
- Poor muscle tone.
- Loss of tail.
Resources
There are numerous other websites that have more detailed information. The
information I provided is simply a basic background. Please RESEARCH any
species before you buy, and use multiple sources. You can also use me as a
resource for questions not answered here. I will happily answer any questions
you might have, or direct you to a place in which you can find the answer. You
can e-mail me direct at contact@milwaukeereptiles.com.
If you use an open forum, please READ some of the pasts posts. Many questions
have been asked and answered in the past, and reading through old posts will
give you a feel for the forum before you post. You'll probably even learn about
other topics that you may need in the future. That being said, here are some
good resources:
Forums
Breeders / Classifieds
Events / Other
Morph Descriptions:
Veterinary Directories
Books
Both books are available through major retail stores or internet sources.
-
The Leopard Gecko Manual (Herpetocultural Library)
by Philippe De Vosjoli, Brian Viets, Ron Tremper, Roger. Klingenberg DMV
http://www.amazon.com
-
Understanding Reptile Parasites: A Basic Manual for Herpetoculturists &
Veterinarians (Herpetocultural Library)
by Roger Klingenberg
http://www.amazon.com
Other Care Sheets
Articles
|
|
